Textile Activisms and Practices: A Systematic Review of Recent Literature in the Scopus Database

Authors

DOI:

https://doi.org/10.17561/rtc.extra11.9936

Keywords:

Textile activisms, Literature review, Artivism, Craftivism

Abstract

Textile work emerges in various contexts as a means to claim rights and build peace. Understanding it, within the sphere of arts and activism, as a form of visual, narrative, and tactile communication, this study aims to contribute to reflections on textile activisms through a systematic review of recent literature on the subject. We seek to understand from which voices, locations, and approaches this body of literature is constituted.

To this end, texts published between 2019 and 2023 indexed in the Scopus database were gathered, using the terms textile associated with activism, artivism, or craftivism. The analysis of the 39 publications found indicates the predominance of female authors, with institutional origins concentrated mainly in the United Kingdom and the United States, followed by Colombia.

Their main disciplines are Arts, Management, and Anthropology, with interdisciplinary contributions from feminist studies appearing in nearly 30 percent of the cases. The recurrence of the craftivism perspective and the absence of artivism in the approaches may suggest the persistence of framing textile work within the craft universe, to the detriment of artistic interpretations.

Methodologies based on the researcher’s in-person engagement are frequent, pointing to a type of knowledge inherent to textile practice. The review allows us to glimpse elements of the complex web of social, political, and cultural dynamics that permeate the historical development of textile work, as well as the circulation of academic knowledge within databases.

Downloads

Download data is not yet available.

Author Biography

  • Mariana Silva Sirena, ICNOVA - NOVA FCSH (Instituto de Comunicação da NOVA / Faculdade de Ciências Sociais e Humanas da Universidade Nova de Lisboa

    Mariana Silva Sirena é doutoranda em Ciências da Comunicação (especialidade em
    Comunicação e Artes) na Universidade NOVA de Lisboa. Atualmente, pesquisa
    comunicação, cultura, artivismos têxteis e arte têxtil participativa. Natural do Brasil, possui
    graduação em Jornalismo e mestrado em Ciências da Comunicação e Informação pela Universidade
    Federal do Rio Grande do Sul. 

References

Braga, J. L. (2011). A prática da pesquisa em comunicação - abordagem metodológica como tomada de decisões. E-Compós, 14(1). https://doi.org/10.30962/ec.665

Bryan-Wilson, J. (2017). Fray: Art and Textile Politics. The University of Chicago Press. https://doi.org/10.7208/chicago/9780226369822.001.0001

Corbett, S. (2017). How to be a craftivist: The gentle art of protest. London: Unbound.

de la Garza, A., Hernández-Espinosa, C., & Rosar, R. (2022). Embroidery as activist

translation in Latin America. TEXTILE, 20(2), 168-181. https://doi.org/10.1080/1

2021.1962697

Greer, B. (2014). Craftivism: The art of craft and activism. Vancouver: Arsenal Pulp Press.

Hackney, F. (2013). Quiet Activism and the New Amateur: The Power of

Home and Hobby Crafts. Design and Culture, 5(2), 169-193. https://doi.

org/10.2752/175470813X13638640370733

Parker, R. (2010). The Subversive Stitch: Embroidery and the Making of the Feminine. I. B. Tauris & Co Ltd. (Obra original publicada em 1984).

Pérez-Bustos, T. (2021). Gestos textiles: un acercamiento material a las etnografías, los cuerpos y los tiempos. Editorial Universidad Nacional de Colombia.

Pottinger, L. (2017). Planting the seeds of a quiet activism. Area, 49(2), pp. 215-222.

http://www.jstor.org/stable/44329644 https://doi.org/10.1111/area.12318Raposo,

P. (2022). Performances políticas e artivismo: Arquivo, repertório e re-performance. Novos debates, 8(1), pp 1-28. https://doi.org/10.48006/2358-0097/V8N1.E8119

Sennett, R. (2009). O artífice (Clóvis Marques, Trad.) (2. Ed). Record. (Obra original

publicada em 2008).

Shercliff, E. (2015). Joining in and dropping out: Hand-stitching in spaces of

social interaction. Craft Research, 6(2), pp. 187-207. https://doi.org/10.1386/

crre.6.2.187_1

CORPUS:

Bailey, R., & Walton, N. (2022). The Big Rainbow Knit: revisiting craftivist practices through place-based making. TEXTILE, 1–14. https://doi.org/10.1080/14759756.2022.2102731

Bolaki, S. (2020). Disability narrative, embodied aesthetics and cross-media arts. In Hall, A. (Ed.) The Routledge Companion to Literature and Disability (pp. 327-342). Routledge. https://doi.org/10.4324/9781315173047-33

Celigueta Comerma, G. & Martínez Mauri, M. (2020). ¿Textiles mediáticos? Investigar sobre activismo indígena en Panamá, Guatemala y el espacio Web 2.0. Revista Española de Antropología Americana, 50, 241–252. https://doi.org/10.5209/reaa.70367

Chang, H. J., Rakib, N., & Min, J. (2023). An Exploration of Transformative Learning Applied to the Triple Bottom Line of Sustainability for Fashion Consumers. Sustainability, 15(12), 9300. https://doi.org/10.3390/su15129300

Collinge, P. (2020). Enterprise, activism and charity: Mary Pickford and the urban elite of Derby, 1780-1812. Midland History, 45(1), 36–54. https://doi.org/10.1080/0047729X.2020.1712079

Conduru, R. (2023). Axó of the spider woman: black activism in Goya Lopes’s patterned fabrics. International Journal of Fashion Studies, 10(2), 157–187. https://doi.org/10.1386/infs_00093_1

Cortés-Rico, L., & Pérez-Bustos, T. (2021). Textile objections: interferences and digital-textile activism. Cadernos Pagu, 59. https://doi.org/10.1590/18094449202000590007

Corvellec, H & Stål, H. (2019). Qualification as corporate activism: How Swedish apparel retailers attach circular fashion qualities to take-back systems. Scandinavian Journal of Management, 35 (3). https://doi.org/10.1016/j.scaman.2019.03.002

Dillon, L. (2024). Participatory needlework and human rights activism: the project Bordando por la paz y la memoria: una víctima un pañuelo [Embroidering for peace and memory: one victim, one handkerchief]. Journal of Romance Studies, 24(1), 73–95. https://doi.org/10.3828/jrs.2024.6

González-Arango, I. C., Villamizar-Gelves, A. M., Chocontá-Piraquive, A., & Quiceno-Toro, N. (2022). Pedagogías textiles sobre el conflicto armado en Colombia: activismos, trayectorias y transmisión de saberes desde la experiencia de cuatro colectivos de mujeres en Quibdó, Bojayá, Sonsón y María La Baja. Revista de estudios sociales, 79, 126–144. https://doi.org/10.7440/res79.2022.08

Grammont, N., Ezcurra, M. (2022). Latin American and Latin-Canadian textile practices: Art, activism and diasporic identity. In Surette, S. & Paterson, E. Craft and Heritage Intersections in Critical Studies and Practice. Bloomsbury. https://doi.org/10.5040/9781350067615.ch-5

Hackney, F. & Setterington, L. (2022). Crafting with a purpose: how the ‘work’ of the workshop makes, promotes and embodies well-being. Journal of Applied Arts & Health, 13, 307–324. https://doi.org/10.1386/jaah_00113_1

Hart, I. (2022). Althea McNish: designs without borders. Art History, 45(3), 598–623. https://doi.org/10.1111/1467-8365.12655

Jeffrey Jehom, W. (2022). Dilemmas of an Indigenous activist anthropologist: Iban textiles and community development. AlterNative: an international journal of indigenous peoples, 18(2), 245 – 256. https://doi.org/10.1177/11771801221101780

Koenig, P. & Poncet, S. (2019). Social responsibility scandals and trade. World Development, 124. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.worlddev.2019.104640.

Koenig, P. & Poncet, S. (2022). The effects of the Rana Plaza collapse on the sourcing choices of French importers. Journal of International Economics, 137. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.jinteco.2022.103576

Kupfner, M. (2023). Folded into the archive: racialized textile labours and the work of suffrage memory. Histoire Sociale, 56(116), 341–367. https://doi.org/10.1353/his.2023.a914567

Manathunga, C., Bosanquet, A. (2021). Remaking Academic Garments. In Black, A.L., Dwyer, R. (eds) Reimagining the Academy. Palgrave Macmillan, Cham. https://doi.org/10.1007/978-3-030-75859-2_17

Mandell, H. (2021). ‘Monstrous’ craft activism: A city yarn installation that wrought controversy through textile togetherness and community engagement. Craft Research, 12(1), 31–50. https://doi.org/10.1386/crre_00039_1

Mandell, H. (2023). Yarn over police brutality: race and the occupation of Rochester City Hall’s steps during the Daniel Prude Protest. TEXTILE, 1–11. https://doi.org/10.1080/14759756.2023.2215127

Matta, N. (2020). Class Capacity and Cross-Gender Solidarity: Women’s Organizing in an Egyptian Textile Company. Politics & Society, 49(2), 203-233. https://doi.org/10.1177/0032329220938521

May, K. (2020). The Pussyhat Project: texturing the struggle for feminist solidarity. Journal of International Women's Studies, 21 (3). https://vc.bridgew.edu/jiws/vol21/iss3/7

Mazzarella, F. & Black, S. (2023). Fashioning change: fashion activism and its outcomes on local communities. Fashion Practice, 15(2), 230–255. https://doi.org/10.1080/17569370.2022.2095729

McGovern, A. & Barnes, C. (2022). Visible mending, street stitching, and embroidered handkerchiefs: how craftivism is being used to challenge the fashion industry. International Journal for Crime, Justice and Social Democracy, 11(2), 87–101. https://doi.org/10.5204/ijcjsd.2352

McMullan, M. (2022). Will there be womanly times? Reflections on the work of Ellen Lesperance. TEXTILE, 1–9. https://doi.org/10.1080/14759756.2022.2136870

Meech, S. (2022). Fabrications: using knitted artworks to challenge developers’ narratives of regeneration and recognise Manchester’s south asian working class textiles businesses. TEXTILE, 1–22. https://doi.org/10.1080/14759756.2022.2099628

Moreshead, A., & Salter, A. (2023). Knitting the in_visible: data-driven craftivism as feminist resistance. Journal of Gender Studies, 32(8), 875–886. https://doi.org/10.1080/09589236.2023.2258068

Nordenstam, A. & Wallin Wictorin, M. (2022). Comics craftivism: embroidery in contemporary Swedish feminist comics. Journal of graphic novels and comics, 13(2), 174–192. http://doi.org/10.1080/21504857.2020.1870152

Pérez-Bustos, T., Sánchez-Aldana, E., & Chocontá-Piraquive, A. (2019). Textile material metaphors to describe feminist textile activisms: from threading yarn, to knitting, to weaving politics. TEXTILE, 17(4), 368–377. https://doi.org/10.1080/14759756.2019.1639417

Raghavan, P. (2022). ‘Oh, there are politics in Billie’s Work!’: Billie Zangewa and/at the boundaries of feminist visual activism. Journal of Cultural Analysis and Social Change, 7(2), 19. https://doi.org/10.20897/jcasc/12760

Rani, H. & Saha, G. (2021). Organizations and standards related to textile and fashion waste management and Sustainability. In Nayak, R. & Patnaik, A. The Textile Institute Book Series, Waste Management in the Fashion and Textile Industries (pp. 173-196). Woodhead Publishing. https://doi.org/10.1016/B978-0-12-818758-6.00009-0

Razor, S. (2022). The code of presence: belarusian protest embroideries and textile patterns: exhibition report. FOLKLORICA - Journal of the slavic, east european, and eurasian Folklore Association, 26, 72–98. https://doi.org/10.17161/folklorica.v26i.18373

Sánchez-Aldana, E.; Pérez-Bustos, T. & Chocontá-Piraquive, A. (2019). ¿Qué son los activismos textiles?: una mirada desde los estudios feministas a catorce casos bogotanos. Athenea Digital, 19(3). https://doi.org/10.5565/rev/athenea.2407

Sandhu, A. (2019). India’s digital drag aunties: breaking new ground wearing familiar fashions. Dress, 45(1), 55–73. https://doi.org/10.1080/03612112.2019.1567131

Sandhu, A. (2022). Less is more: The paradox of minimalism in contemporary Indian fashion. International Journal of Fashion Studies, 9, Issue Decolonizing Fashion as Process, 339–359. https://doi.org/10.1386/infs_00075_1

Sliwinska, B. (2023). Caring to notice: Sera Waters’ disentangled pasts, attentive reparation and truth-telling toward survivable futures. Art Journal, 82(4), 18–37. https://doi.org/10.1080/00043249.2023.2281216

Tacchetti, M., Quiceno Toro, N., Papadopoulos, D., & Puig de la Bellacasa, M. (2022). Crafting ecologies of existence: more than human community making in colombian textile craftivism. Environment and Planning E: Nature and Space, 5(3), 1383–1404. https://doi.org/10.1177/25148486211030154

Trejo, H. X., Burks, F., Vargas, J. J., & Villanueva, I. D. (2023). Supporting US Rare Sheep Farms: A Fashion Accessory and Marketing Strategy. Fashion Practice, 15(3), 373–400. https://doi.org/10.1080/17569370.2023.2202492

Warner, H., & Inthorn, S. (2022). Activism to make and do: the (quiet) politics of textile community groups. International Journal of Cultural Studies, 25(1), 86–101. https://doi.org/10.1177/13678779211046015

Published

2025-12-01

Issue

Section

Artículos temáticos del número

How to Cite

Silva Sirena, M. (2025) “Textile Activisms and Practices: A Systematic Review of Recent Literature in the Scopus Database”, Tercio Creciente, (extra11), pp. 45–65. doi:10.17561/rtc.extra11.9936.